绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
上传成功
您有新的好友动态
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年07月04日
atastybellpepper
A plant can become quickly stressed out by either too much or too little light, which increases their susceptibility to disease, pests, and early demise. Fortunately, the majority of plants have labels on them that indicate whether they prefer full sun or partial shade. You'll need to keep a close eye on it because it may take some trial and error to find the plant's ideal lighting. The amount of sunlight in your yard is frequently simpler to gauge than inside. Outside, it's easy to see where the sun is shining directly and where it's shaded. Indoor lighting is more subdued. Knowing the different types of light you have in your home can help you determine whether a houseplant will thrive there. Choosing the Right Indoor Plant Lighting Interior plant lighting comes in three main categories: Bright Light: A sunny window that receives direct light all day long is one that faces the south or west. It needs at least five to six hours of direct sunlight each day, ideally more. Avoid the temptation to move your plant closer to the window during the winter months when caring for plants can sometimes be more difficult. The majority of plants that require lots of light won't be able to withstand the chilly drafts that get worse the closer you get to a window. Indirect Light: The interior of a room that receives full light from a south or west-facing window will have indirect light. It can also have indirect light in areas with an east-facing window. This may also imply, for example, that there is a sheer curtain between the light source and your plant. 1 Low Light: Especially in the winter, a lot of spaces meet this criteria. Low-light conditions include spaces that have windows that face north or that are partially shaded. If it's difficult for you to read a newspaper, the lighting is probably poor. Even in dimly lit spaces, plants can still grow with the addition of artificial lighting. Additional Plant Needs The surrounding environment must be taken into account when figuring out how much light your houseplant will need. Although it's not an exact science, keeping in mind these factors will help you choose the best location for your plant. Temperature: Plants placed close to a heat source, like a heating vent, might not be able to withstand as much bright light as a similar plant placed in a cooler location. Even though you regularly water your plant, if it frequently appears to be wilting, the heat source could be a contributing factor. Similar to temperature, low or absent air moisture can make plants wilt and become stressed. If that occurs, if you also regularly mist the plant or provide a nearby humidifier, you can typically leave the plant in its ideal lighting conditions. Sunlight Duration: Most plants require a full day of sunlight. If you can't offer your plant a location with ideal lighting, you might need to provide some additional lamp lighting. 1 Seasonal Variations: As the seasons change, other things also change. The sun is also at a different angle. Your western-facing window may receive full sun all day if the days are long and the sun is high in the sky. Even a western-facing window won't provide enough light for a plant that needs full sun when the days grow shorter and the sun only shines at an angle. Keep in mind to leave your plant alone if it appears happy and healthy. Try another area if necessary.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年07月04日
atastybellpepper
Maybe you've written yourself off as having a brown thumb if you've failed in the flower garden. Avoid doing it. Recognize that errors happen even to seasoned gardeners. Enjoy the thrill of bringing a trunkful of greenery home. Create a garden plan that includes a watering and feeding schedule for your plants to save yourself some hassle. Water is often the main cause of a garden's failure. Your plants will perish if you water them too much or not enough. Setting out fragile seedlings without a hardening-off time is another error that is often made. Before interacting with the bright light, young plants need a brief acclimatization period. Giving a young transplant too much fertilizer too quickly is another typical mistake since they are prone to chemical burns. Continue reading to learn how to safeguard your investment by avoiding 13 typical gardening issues. 1. An excessive amount of water Flowers have very specific requirements for moisture, just as they need for sunlight and fertilizer. Before you locate your flowers a permanent home in the garden, discover more about your flowers' watering requirements by looking behind the care tag on your plant. "Moisture-loving" might refer to bog plants like the cardinal flower or it could refer to an inch of water every week. Other flowers could not bloom because they have been watered excessively: plants that don't like damp feet, like lavender cotton, can develop root rot as a result. Plant flowers with comparable requirements together as a solution. A xeriscape garden could thrive in the area of your yard furthest from your faucet and around your mailbox. To prevent the danger of root rot, grow moisture-loving plants in the garden bed next to the downspout. 2. Choosing the Incorrect Location Some blooming plants need full light in order to get the necessary energy to develop blossoms. These plants would cease blossoming, deteriorate, and become more vulnerable to pests and diseases without this source of photosynthesis. On forest floors and in forests, other, shade-loving flowers have developed, and too much light will burn and brown the leaves. Solution: While it's OK to experiment a little with a plant's exposure, like giving your astilbes an hour of morning light, you should generally stick to the exposure recommendations on the care tag. Planting too soon The nurseries are luring us with magnificent dahlias and New Guinea impatiens since winter has lingered on for three more weeks. You bring home a flat of these flowers and plant them the moment the temperature reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit since if the nursery is selling them, it must be time to plant. The issue with this strategy is that you just threw these delicate tropical plants into spring thaw mud after the nursery cared for them in its greenhouse. This systemic shock never allows the plant to fully recuperate. To find out your typical last frost date, get in touch with your county extension agency. Follow the instructions on the plant marker, regardless of weather anomalies, if it advises to plant two weeks after the last frost. Stick with tried-and-true flowers like primroses and pansies for the earliest blooms. 4. Being aggressive while repotting How can those examples with tangled roots be persuaded to let go of their nursery pots? not by pulling the stems. Numerous plants, particularly herbaceous non-woody plants, are very delicate at the stem level. Your young delphinium stems get injured when you pull and tug on them, opening a doorway for fungus, insects, and other pests. Solution: Never remove a plant from its container by the stems or leaves. To remove the plant, tap the pot's bottom. Squeeze the pot to free the rootball if it's just a little bit rootbound. Take take your box cutter and gently remove the container off the plant if it is really rootbound. 5. Planting excessively Getting a seed package full of seeds and putting a lot of them in your garden or too many in one pot is a classic beginner error. Solution: Plant seeds according to the advised spacing. Don't put too many seeds in one container. If they all germinate, be careful to trim your seedlings or remove the weakest ones and separate your seedlings according to the instructions on the seed package. Smaller leaves, crowding, bug problems, and illness may result from too many seedlings vying for water and nutrients in a container. 6. Incorrect Planting Depth Some flowers are self-seeders, which means they don't need any planting at all. Instead, they disperse with the wind and grow wherever they land in the presence of the ideal temperatures, water conditions, and lighting. However, bigger seeds often need to be planted deeper. Solution: Pay strict attention to the planting depth recommendations on seed packs. The seed must bury itself deeper the bigger it is. However, if it's too deep, it may not grow or the sprout might not reach the surface in time to get the necessary sunlight. 7. Improper Use of Herbicides and Insecticides The majority of chemicals will disrupt the ecosystem's equilibrium in some way, and they sometimes have unintended consequences like killing beneficial insects or neighboring plants. The use of natural therapies like insecticidal soap, neem oil, and vinegar—which may nevertheless have an impact on the plants and animals in your garden—is also consistent with this idea. Solution: Both organic and synthetic chemicals should only be used sparingly. Before utilizing a product, read all of the labels carefully, be sure it will accomplish your goals, and only use the bare minimum. 8. Inaccurate estimation of the plant's mature size What begins as a 12-inch plant might eventually grow into a tree that leans against your home, obscures your garden, or ruins your landscape design. Know the plant's lifetime and potential size. Solution: Carefully study the plant tag or label and take the mature size into consideration. A tree should be planted at least 15 feet away from a home's foundation as a general rule of thumb. 9. Too-Hard or Too-Early Pruning With the exception of certain flowering shrubs that blossom on old wood, it is often a good idea to prune back dormant or presumably dead wood as soon as spring begins. One of the earliest plants to bloom in March, forsythia is a perfect example of an early bloomer. Its blooms often appear on aged wood. You risk removing all of the year's blossoms if you prune too soon. Lilacs, rhododendrons, and hydrangeas may also be impacted. Solution: Delay trimming until after the plants have flowered. Also, research your plant to see if trimming is necessary. In certain cases, a little shape and branch or stem reduction can do the trick for the plant. 10. Remind Your Plants to Harden Off Young plants need hardening off or a period of acclimatization to life outdoors (or returning indoors). The plants must adjust to the ferocious wind, rain, and sun. If not, a young plant may experience stress, droop, cease developing, or even pass away. Solution: If moving a seedling from a tiny container, gradually increase the time over many weeks by placing the container in its new location outdoors for a few hours each day.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
The significance of fertilizing indoor plants is one that far too many people ignore. To develop healthy, attractive plants, correct feedings are necessary. The quantity of soil in the container and any additional food you give a houseplant are the only sources of nutrients it can access, unlike an outside garden where nature supplies rain and plants may shoot new roots out in search of nourishment. Consider fertilizer as your potting soil's second half. Your plants won't require much, if any, fertilizer while the potting soil is new. This is particularly true of contemporary potting soils that have been strengthened with additives like fertilizer. But after around two months, the plant will have used all the soil's nutrients, so you'll need to fertilize if you want it to keep growing healthily. Different Fertilizers There are many various types of fertilizers, including liquids, sticks, pills, granules, and slow-release formulations. Liquid and slow-release fertilizers are the two that are most appropriate for indoor application. Granules and sticks may be more handy, but they don't do a good job of distributing nutrients throughout the soil, and after you've put a fertilizer stick into your pot, you have no control over how much of it will be released. Granular fertilizers are intended to be used outside. Implement liquid fertilizer Using a watering can, liquid fertilizers are administered after being diluted in water. You could fertilize every time you water or every other time, depending on the label's directions. The frequency will also depend on the kind of plant, since some—especially those with showy huge blooms—might need to be fed more often. Always do your study on the nutritional requirements of plants to understand what they need. You can carefully manage the amount of nutrients that are continuously supplied via liquid fertilizer. For instance, it is simple to stop feeding the plant during the winter months when it is dormant and to start feeding more when it begins to sprout new growth. The drawback is that you have to remember to do it each time. Attempt slow-releasing fertilizer. For both indoor and outdoor plants, these products have quickly emerged as many gardeners' and professional growers' favorites. The time-release shells on slow-release fertilizers are designed to slowly release nutrients into the soil. Because each pellet has a coating with a different thickness that dissolves at a different rate, the fertilizer is actually released gradually over time. Between four and nine months might pass between applications. The main disadvantage is that slow-release fertilizer is more expensive, but because it lasts so long, the cost is offset. Utilize fertilizer granules. You may manually incorporate dry, pure fertilizer pellets into the potting soil. They can be used for indoor containers, despite being more frequently used in outdoor gardens, though it can be challenging. Granular fertilizer is difficult to control because it releases all of its nutrients simultaneously when the pot is watered. Although fairly affordable, this kind of fertilizer is not a good option for feeding indoor plants. Advice on Purchasing Fertilizer The fundamental macronutrients that plants require to grow, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are present in all general-purpose fertilizers. Each macronutrient serves a certain purpose: Nitrogen promotes the development of healthy foliage. The element phosphorus promotes larger, healthier flowers. Potassium promotes a robust internal system. African violet fertilizers are one example of a specialty fertilizer that has these nutrients in optimized ratios for a specific plant type. Better-quality fertilizers contain micronutrients like boron, magnesium, and manganese that will promote healthier growth in addition to these macronutrients. Check the fertilizer's label to see what nutrients are present.
...显示更多
0
1
1
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
Damnation
08-08
0
B
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
Who among us who plant inside hasn't posed this query? Even while houseplants are great for your health and home decor, it might often feel like they simply want to pass away, particularly if you're just starting out with indoor gardening. Even worse, many times gardeners are baffled as to why their cherished plant perished. The good news is that plants don't really suddenly disappear for no apparent cause. In reality, depending on the species, houseplants are quite predictable, and the great majority of plant deaths are brought on by a handful of common causes. Here are the main causes of houseplant death. Excessive water Although it may appear impossible, it's not only achievable but also a highly frequent error people make. Few plants, even many of the tropical plants we like inside, can withstand daily watering in a normal potting setting. 1 It's often a good idea to wait until the top inch of soil is dry, according to the sage advise. Additionally, keep an eye out for drooping or withering leaves since these are indicators that your plant is thirsty. Generally speaking, you should wait to water plants until they need it. Lack of Drainage Overwatering's first cousin is this. It's difficult to distinguish between watering and drainage since they are so closely connected, yet it is undeniable that many plants die as a result of poor draining. Even if the soil is drier higher up, poorly drained pots, which might contain root-bound plants or even old potting soil, can readily hold water at the bottom of the pot. As a consequence, the roots are left submerged in water, which provides the ideal environment for root rot. Similar to this, many individuals will water their plants until the tray is full, but they won't dump it, leaving the plant effectively submerged in a pond. Root rot is also invited by this. Generally speaking, you can water more regularly and with greater freedom to make errors with watering the better your drainage is. Repotting not It happens all too often for a plant owner to have a plant for a year or two, during which time it grows and looks fantastic, only to be surprised and perplexed when the plant suddenly begins to deteriorate. This is often brought on by a plant that is root-bound and no longer getting enough nutrients from the soil since there isn't much of it left. Not all plants need repotting annually, but you should keep an eye out for plants with entrapped roots. 2 Old Potting Soil Utilized Additionally connected to not repotting is this. Peat is the main component of most potting soils, which decomposes over time and becomes more acidic. Even if nothing else changes, the plant will steadily starve because it becomes more difficult for water and oxygen to adequately infuse the root zone as peat decomposes (e.g., your watering schedule). When the plant need it, repotting is the best course of action. Take cuttings if your plant is too old. Lack of Water Since negligence is mostly to blame, it is fair to assume that those who allow their plants to dry up are just careless. Issues with Fertilizer Keep in mind that concerns with light and fertilizer are conspicuously absent from this list. The fact is that many plants may be quite adaptive provided the watering and drainage are done correctly. A plant with a strong root zone can often withstand temperature changes, insufficient illumination, and even low light levels. In this respect, plants are similar to homes in that they need a solid foundation to flourish. However, your plants will flourish if you can give them the right quantity of light and use fertilizer wisely. Last but not least, if you do discover that you're dying a lot of plants, it could be time to start investing in harder houseplants and go gradually to the more difficult ones.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
There are several advantages to growing plants inside in addition to being able to enjoy their pure aesthetic appeal in our homes and workplaces. Why then are houseplants healthy for us? Here are a few unexpected advantages of houseplants. How Can Houseplants Help People? Did you realize that indoor plants may really make the air more humid? For those of us who live in dry regions or have forced air heating systems in our homes, this is very crucial. A mechanism known as transpiration allows houseplants to shed moisture into the atmosphere. This may assist in maintaining a healthy amount of indoor air humidity. Your humidity will rise the more plants you have gathered together. Plants in the home may alleviate "sick building syndrome." Our indoor air has become dirtier as houses and other structures have grown more energy-efficient. A wide range of pollutants are released into our indoor air by several everyday home furnishings and construction components. Houseplants may assist to drastically decrease indoor air pollution, according to a NASA research. Numerous studies have shown that having houseplants around us may make us happy, a phenomenon called as biophilia. A University of Michigan research discovered that being among plants while working really improves focus and productivity. The presence of houseplants has been demonstrated to lower blood pressure in only a few minutes, which is another way that they might help us cope with stress. It has been shown that houseplants may lessen the presence of germs and mold. Through their roots, plants are able to take things in and effectively decompose them. Additionally, they may lessen the amount of dust or other airborne particles. It has been shown that placing plants in a space may reduce the amount of dust or particles in the air by up to 20%. Finally, it's remarkable how much better the acoustics and noise reduction are when plants are present. According to one research, plants help quiet down noisy spaces with plenty of rough surfaces. They had a comparable impact as adding carpet to a space. The abundance of subsequent advantages provided by houseplants is quite amazing, which is just another reason to love having them in your home!
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
An orchid's bloom is a pleasant task and a certain indication of a healthy plant. However, failure to bloom is merely one indicator that the orchid is in trouble. Paying attention to the plant's development and leaves when it is not in bloom will enable you to see issues as they arise and take the required actions to address them. Here are some suggestions to assist you in restoring your sick orchid to health. My Orchid Won't Bloom: Why? Most orchid foliage is not especially appealing, unless you like waxy, spathe-like leaves, protruding stems, and sproingy air roots. The blossoms of approximately 30,000 species of orchids symbolize the beautiful art of the plant world, ranging from vibrant dancing butterflies to baby booties. 1 The good news is that the majority of orchids bloom for up to three months on average, and some species even bloom twice a year. Therefore, you probably need to change your care routine if your orchid hasn't bloomed at least once a year but the leaves are reproducing, have nice color, and are free of pests and blemishes. Regular Maintenance Is Crucial Orchids may be found growing in a variety of environments worldwide, including woods, alpine rainforests, and tropical jungles. Find out where your orchid normally grows and try to replicate the environment there as precisely as you can. Orchids need the same care as other flowering plants, yet they have different demands. Here are some things to think about: Temperature: Should you supply both a warm and a chilly time for your species of orchids, or does it need continuously warm temperatures? For many species to bloom, the nighttime temperature must be lower. Bud drop may result from excessive temperature variation. Place the orchid somewhere where the temperature is more stable. The orchid can absorb moisture from the air via its leaf and roots, and this is known as humidity (in epiphytic species). If you decide on this kind of orchid, misting may be necessary to promote bloom. Use a spray bottle to softly sprinkle the air around the plants if your mister is set up to avoid soaking the foliage. A layer of wet stones underneath your plant might also assist to increase humidity. When your orchid is blooming, avoid misting. For healthy foliage and blooms, does your orchid prefer direct sunlight or indirect light? Placing your plant in the right kind of light might be the difference between a stunning annual or twice-yearly bloom time and uninteresting greens. Review the plant's normal development and rest intervals and keep your orchid in complete darkness at night if it won't bloom. Water: After blooming, the majority of orchids enter a period of hibernation during which their water requirements are lowered. However, depending on the variety of orchid, watering needs may vary greatly from the first evidence of new growth (often a new leaf) until bloom. Your plant won't stay in optimal condition if you just water it once a week all year long. The watering schedule must be changed to accommodate the particular requirements of the orchid you are raising. Withhold water and repot the orchid in dry potting soil if the leaves start to wilt and the growth at the base of the plant turns mushy. Fertilizer: Because they consume a lot of food, orchids do best in an atmosphere with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The majority of growth medium for these plants won't have enough nutrients, thus adding orchid food or a balanced fertilizer has to be a regular part of maintenance. Water soluble orchid feeding is practical and may be added to your suggested watering regimen. This works well since watering is often decreased during the orchid's dormant season, which is also when fertilizer should be avoided throughout the plant's yearly cycle. Overfertilization is seldom a concern, but for certain species, it's advised to cut the fertilizer's strength in half to a quarter. Determine and address foliage issues Like all other flowering plants, orchids have a blooming phase. However, when they aren't in bloom, we turn to the leaves to spot and fix issues. You may need to adjust your care plan if your orchid isn't generating new leaves or if the leaves seem sickly despite your regular maintenance routine. Alternatively, the issue might be a disease or a pest infestation. No New Leaves Are Developing Most orchids will enter a period of dormancy after bloom during which no new growth will be seen. When there are prolonged periods of insufficient light in the winter, new growth might also stall or cease. Keep the potting material equally wet during this time, cut down on water, and refrain from fertilizer. This is a normal stage of an orchid's growth cycle. Leaves Fall Off and Turn Yellow With orchids, the loss of the bottom-most leaves happens naturally. Older leaves will ultimately turn yellow and fall off as new leaves emerge. Overexposure to sunshine or water may also cause leaves to become yellow. If so, relocate the plant to a cool location and stop watering it for a few weeks. Plant disease in orchids The illnesses caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses may affect orchids. Various viruses affect different orchid species in different ways. The cattleya orchid's leaves develop pitting due to the Cymbidium mosaic virus. Other viruses induce aberrant patterning in shades of yellow and brown as well as bright and dark stripes on the leaves. If the plant does manage to blossom, the flowers may be brittle and fleeting in nature. Check the plant at an agricultural experiment station if you think it could be infected with a virus. Sadly, there is no treatment for orchid viruses. Get rid of the sick plant and disinfect the container before using it again to prevent spreading the infection to other plants in your collection. Infections caused by bacteria and fungi include brown rot, which appears as a pale brown spot on a leaf and swiftly spreads throughout the plant. Sunken brown, yellow, or reddish dots or streaks are the result of bacterial leaf spot on leaves. These illnesses, which often arise from excessive humidity, cause the leaf tissues to collapse and give the impression of being saturated in water. When you water your orchids in the morning, the foliage has time to dry before the temperature drops at night. Remove the infected sections of the orchid, isolate it right away, and change the potting material if you suspect an infection. While the plant is healing, you may apply a fungicide to the wounds and then reduce water and humidity. Before repotting the orchid, wash the pot with a solution of mild soap and water, and be careful to sanitize the equipment to prevent infection from spreading to neighboring plants. Plant Pests Weevils, sowbugs, springtails, snails, scale, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites are a few of the nuisance insects. Look for leaves that seem to have been chewed on or those have what seems to be white powder on the undersides. Light infestations may often be brushed off with soap and water or eliminated by hand. For severe infestations, try neem oil, hydrogen peroxide, or isopropyl alcohol. However, if there are large populations of small insects like thrips and spider mites, a pesticide treatment may be necessary.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
The lovely, simple-to-grow Echeveria peacockii succulent, which is native to Mexico, thrives well inside and outdoors in warm climes. It is distinguished by spoon-shaped, rosette-shaped, powdered blue-gray leaves with scarlet ends. Although these succulents grow slowly, under the correct circumstances they may reach a diameter of up to six inches. Care for Echeveria Peacockii Echeveria peacockii is a great option if you're seeking for a low-maintenance plant. These succulents may survive without watering, if they are placed in a bright, sunny area. In the spring or early summer, your Echeveria peacockii could even please you with a display of lovely pink blossoms. These beautiful, bell-shaped blooms have long stems that emerge from the center of the rosettes and bloom for two to three weeks. Light Sun-loving succulents like Echeveria peacockii need a lot of light to promote strong growth. Give them as much light as you can while growing plants inside, either via a window that faces south or west or under a grow lamp. Echeveria peacockii should be placed in areas that get some shelter from the sun's most intense rays when cultivated outdoors, particularly in hot climes where it may burn the fragile leaves. Soil To prevent water from pooling around the roots of these succulents, they need potting soil that drains properly. The Echeveria peacockii thrives in commercially available cactus and succulent mixtures, or you may build your own at home with relative ease. To make a mix that is gritty, airy, and well-draining, combine equal portions of ordinary potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite. Water Although exceedingly drought-tolerant, Echeveria peacockii is sensitive to overwatering. Generally speaking, it is preferable to underwater these succulents as opposed to overwatering them. Between waterings, the soil should be given enough time to completely dry out. Keep water out of the rosette at all times. Thermodynamics and Humidity Echeveria peacockii, a native of Mexico, prefers warm, dry weather and cannot endure freezing. In USDA zones 9b through 11b, they may be grown outside all year round; otherwise, if you want to plant these succulents outside, you should put them in pots that you can bring inside during the winter. Fertilizer These Echeveria do not need routine fertilizer since they are used to thriving on subpar soils. In fact, over fertilization might actually have the opposite effect of what it is intended to achieve—leggy growth and fertilizer burn. However, to encourage healthy development during the active growing season, plants may profit from an annual application of cactus/succulent fertilizer in the early spring. Echeveria Peacockii regrowth Cuttings or leaves work best for propagating this Echeveria. To spread a plant by means of its leaves, carefully twist off one of the plant's healthy leaves, being sure to preserve the leaf's base. Put the leaf (or leaves) in a spot with strong, indirect light, on top of a soil mixture that drains well. Before watering, wait until roots start to emerge from the end of the leaf, and then water sparingly. You should see a little succulent sprouting at the end of the leaf after a few weeks. The old leaf will eventually die and fall off as the new succulent ages, at which time you may repot it and continue your regular maintenance routine. A mature plant may sometimes produce offshoots, at which point it may be reproduced through cuttings. Separate the offshoots from the parent plant using a clean, sharp knife, and then let them alone for 24 hours so the wound may callus over. After that, put the cutting's stem in a soil mixture that drains well and set it in a spot that gets plenty of indirect light. After a few weeks, roots should start to emerge; at this time, you may start watering the cutting. Echeveria Peacockii Potting and Repotting Echeveria peacockii are slow-growing succulents with shallow root systems that don't need frequent repotting. Only once the succulent has outgrown its previous potting container can they be repotted; at that time, they may be moved up one pot size. Before repotting, make sure the soil is completely dry. Also, be cautious handling the root ball while repotting since the roots are quite fragile and brittle. Take out as much dirt as you can from the roots and replace it with fresh soil. To assist the new soil hold the roots in place around the roots, thoroughly water the freshly planted succulent. Common diseases and pests Echeveria peacockii are susceptible to certain common pests like scale and mealybugs but not any significant illnesses or pests. These succulents are prone to root rot because they are so sensitive to overwatering. To avoid overwatering, plant your Echeveria peacockii in a soil mixture that drains well and water only when the soil is completely dry.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月29日
atastybellpepper
Low-maintenance houseplants with fascinating forms and sizes include cacti. Your house may get some flavor, flare, and style by using a large cactus as a statement piece. If you want to add a giant cactus to your collection of houseplants, you probably won't be able to grow one from seed since cacti are often slow-growing. Some cacti take 150 years or more to achieve maturity. A juvenile cactus may so easily outlast you before growing to the size you want. Bring a little touch of the desert into your house with these 10 huge cactus plants for an eye-catching and dramatic impression. Basic Care Unexpectedly, keeping cactus happy indoors may be challenging, particularly for people who have a tendency to 'love' their houseplants too much (we're looking at you, over-waterers!). Cacti are desert plants, so keep in mind that they can go for months (yes, months!) without water if necessary. A cactus should never be overwatered; the opposite is always true. Large cacti need a south-facing site and at least six hours of direct sunshine each day to grow inside. Cactus of the blue myrtle (Myrtillocactus geometrizans) The blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans) is a columnar, quickly-growing cactus that eventually takes on the appearance of a tree. While fully grown, it may reach heights of more than 16 feet, although when young, it is still a shrub. Make sure the blue myrtle cactus is placed in stony, well-draining soil and gets at least six hours of direct sunlight each day if it is being cultivated inside. direct sunlight When the soil is dry, use sparingly and cautiously of water. Saguaro 2. (Carnegiea gigantea) One of the species that characterizes the Sonoran desert is the columnar, tree-like saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea). Despite their incredibly sluggish growth, they may reach heights of 40–60 feet in the wild. They make excellent houseplants, but if you want to grow a large cactus, you probably need to get a mature plant that hasn't been poached. direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up 3. Cactus on Mexican Fence Posts (Pachycereus marginatus) The gorgeous blue-green columnar cactus known as the Mexican fence post cactus (Pachycereus marginatus) may mature to a height of 20 feet. Fortunately, this cactus species grows rather quickly, so if you want, you might start with a smaller plant and wait for it to reach a respectable size. direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up Fourth: Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) The golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii), also known as the mother-in-cushion, law's matures to a height and breadth of nearly three feet. Although they won't go as tall as some of the bigger cactus growers, they will grow to astonishing proportions for barrel cacti. Finding a mature plant for sale is usually your best option since these plants grow very slowly. direct sunlight When the land is dry, little or no water should be used. Cinderella Cactus (Euphorbia ingens) Although the candelabra cactus (Euphorbia ingens), which is technically a succulent rather than a cactus, is one of the most well-known kinds of indoor cactus and should still be included. This cactus-like succulent could be the greatest option for those whose homes don't have a lot of bright, sunny windows since it thrives in brilliant indirect light. Bright reflected light to direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up Prickly Pear Cactus, No. 6 (Opuntia) Some of the most common indoor cactus species are prickly pear cactus plants (Opuntia), which are often offered as little three to six-inch plants and may extend out to a width of 12 to 18 inches. To keep your prickly pear happy, like with other cactus kinds, make sure it is positioned in an area that gets at least six hours of direct sunshine daily. direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up Seven. Organ Pipe Cactus (Stenocereus thurberi) The multi-limbed growth habit of the Stenocereus thurberi, often known as the organ pipe cactus, gave rise to its popular name. The green skin of organ pipe cactus has numerous ribs, and the whole stem is covered with tiny spines. They have a maximum height and width of 16 feet, although they develop extremely slowly. direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up 8. Giant Cardon Cactus in Mexico (Pachycereus pringlei) The tallest cactus in the world is the Mexican gigantic cardon (Pachycereus pringlei), which can reach heights of 63 feet and a diameter of 39 inches. However, because of its distinctive look, low maintenance requirements, and often much more manageable size, this cactus is also well-liked as a houseplant. Slow-growing and needing desert-like conditions to survive, this cactus. For this cactus, choose the room with the most natural light and water it sparingly. direct sunlight Water is scarce, and is only applied when the land is dry. Mexican Lime Cactus 9. (Ferocactus pilosus) The Mexican lime cactus is another barrel cactus that may grow to astonishing sizes (Ferocactus pilosus). This cactus is distinguished by protruding ribs embellished with areoles that erupt brilliant crimson spines. The Mexican lime cactus grows very slowly, like the majority of other cacti types. Therefore, you must opt for a well-established plant if you want to add a large specimen to your house. direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up A blue columnar cactus (Pilosocereus pachycladus) Most nurseries and garden stores carry this blue-skinned cactus, which is a very popular houseplant. It may reach a height of 33 feet and has delicate blue skin accented by vivid yellow spines. As it ages, it develops treelike and branching characteristics. To flourish to its best potential indoors, this fast-growing cactus type needs plenty of strong light, consistent fertilizing, and infrequent watering. Bright reflected light to direct sunlight Water: Very little water; water after the soil dries up
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月28日
atastybellpepper
The edible cabbages and kales, the near cousins of ornamental cabbage and kale, are remarkably similar to them in appearance and growth. These beautiful cultivars of the same species (Brassica oleracea) as the eating variety have been developed for aesthetic appeal rather than taste. Despite their little bitterness, they are often used as a garnish. They resemble giant flowers more than vegetables because of the way their leaves create rosettes in hues of purple, rose, and creamy white. In the horticulture industry, blooming cabbages are often referred to as types with smooth leaf edges and large, flat leaves, whereas flowering kales are kinds with serrated or fringed leaf margins. Technically, both are cabbages since genuine cabbage has leaves that form a head, while kale has leaves that form rosettes. Kale and decorative cabbage are biennials of the chilly season. This implies that they develop their vegetative leaves in the first year and then, the following year, put up blossoms, resulting in the production of seeds before the plant perishes. These quickly expanding plants are, however, often cultivated as annuals for their colorful leaves. They are planted from nursery starts in the autumn or the early spring and then taken out of the garden after the season's display is through. Care for Decorative Cabbage or Kale Although they may be vulnerable to some of the same pests that afflict other types of the cabbage family, they are simple plants to cultivate in the majority of sunny regions. If you attempt to grow them in the heat of summer, you may be dissatisfied by how quickly they bolt and go to seed since they favor cool-weather conditions. If they are exposed to chilly, even frigid circumstances, they will produce their most stunning hue. Light These plants like growing in full sunlight. However, midday shade is best when cultivated in warmer areas. These plants thrive in loamy, organically rich soil that drains well. The ideal soil pH range for both cabbage and kale is between 5.5 and 6.5. Water Water the plants often; they want continuously damp but not saturated soil. It's time to water if the top inch of soil is dry. You probably won't need to water anything at all if your climate has consistent rainfall. But if there is a dry period, be ready to provide more water. For these plants, 1 inch of water (from irrigation or rainfall) is ideal, but try to avoid overwatering. Thermodynamics and Humidity Kale and ornamental cabbage need a good cold from a frost in order to fully develop their hues. They may persist all winter long, although the weather greatly affects how they look. They will flee if it is hot and there is a lot of sunlight (send up a flower stalk and go to seed). Additionally, if it's really rainy and stormy, the plants will deteriorate fast. As long as the temperature is more than 5 degrees Fahrenheit, they can endure. A sudden change in temperature, however, may harm or even kill plants. These plants normally don't have a problem with humidity. But if the air is stagnant and the weather is moist, plants may get infected with fungus, which often manifests as patches on the leaves. 1 Fertilizer Use a balanced fertilizer only at planting time to fertilize ornamental kale and cabbage. Avoid fertilizing them while they are still developing to prevent color loss and legginess. Types of Kale and Cabbage for Decoration There isn't a lot of diversity available unless you are producing decorative cabbage and kale for a living. The majority of seed packs simply say "ornamental cabbage." Therefore, it is advisable to concentrate on a color scheme that you find appealing. Flowering kale varieties may be categorized as either having "feather-leaved cultivars" or "fringed-leaved cultivars" (those with ruffled leaves) (those with finely serrated leaves). Several well-liked types include: "Chidori" decorative kale has leaves that are deep magenta, milky white, or purple and has highly curled leaf margins. The 'Color Up' decorative cabbage is upright-growing, with green leaves that have white, pink, or fuchsia cores. The decorative cabbage variety "Osaka" features broad, smooth leaves with pink, red, or white centers. Normally, the plant doesn't grow much. 'Peacock' decorative kale: With loose growth and sharply serrated leaves in shades of red, purple, or white, this plant resembles its food kale relatives more. The flattened form of the decorative cabbage from the "Pigeon" series features a red or white core. Growing Ornamental Kale and Cabbage The second season, when these biennial plants blossom and set seed, is often when they are abandoned. However, if you do let them stay so they may generate seeds, you can harvest the seeds from the fading flower heads and replant them at the right planting time. The seeds may be frozen to keep them fresh for subsequent sowing. How to Grow Kale and Cabbage From Seeds for Decoration About eight weeks before to the final anticipated date of frost, cabbage or kale seeds should be planted inside for spring growth. Start the seeds for the autumn show around July 1 and transplant the seedlings into the garden in the middle of August. Start the seeds inside in little pots with a seed-starting mixture inside. The seeds should be sown in the soil at a depth of approximately 1/4 inch in a light area with a temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The potted seedlings may be put outside after the final spring frost, or in mid to late August for fall/winter display. The seedlings will emerge in 10 to 21 days. Planting and replanting decorative kale and cabbage Ornamental kale or cabbages sometimes seem more natural when planted in pots as opposed to being dispersed around a garden if you just want one or two plants. Similar to how potted pansies are used in the spring and potted chrysanthemums in the autumn, they may make lovely seasonal potted plants. Use an all-purpose potting mix and a container with plenty of drainage holes. You usually won't need to bother about repotting nursery plants into a larger container since they probably won't become much bigger than they are when you obtain them. Overwintering Kale and ornamental cabbages are often not permitted to overwinter since, when they put up flower stalks in their second year, these biennial plants become fairly unsightly. However, because the leaf rosettes stay lovely until repeatedly strong frosts ultimately force them to wilt, the majority of gardeners will keep them in place far throughout the winter. Typical Pests and Plant Illnesses Ornamental cabbages and kale are very vulnerable to cabbage worms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs, and aphids, much like many culinary plants in the Brassica genus. Many of these pests may be removed with hard water sprays. These pests may be controlled using a range of pesticide dusts or horticultural oils made for crops. Kale and cabbage grown in pots may be more resistant to pests and illnesses than those grown in the ground. Leaf spots, blackleg, black rot, and yellows are examples of common disease issues. 1 When the weather is moist, they are most likely to happen. Common Issues With Kale and Ornamental Cabbage Although they are employed as ornamentals, these plants are really vegetables and are thus prone to many common vegetable illnesses and animals that like eating food. You can notice the following significant issues: Leaves with Holes The many feeding insects that adore all Brassicaceae family members probably definitely caused this, at least in part. Kale and cabbages are a favorite food of cabbage worms, many other caterpillars, snails, and aphids. Since these plants are often not eaten, you may use more chemicals to manage the pests by using a range of insecticidal soaps or chemical sprays. Leaves with Black or Yellow Spots In most cases, spots on leaves rather than holes indicate a bacterial or fungal illness. In wet weather, they are more prone to occur. Keeping proper air circulation might lessen the risk of contracting certain illnesses. If used early enough, fungicides may aid in the treatment of fungal illnesses. There are ugly tall stalks. Bolting, or going to bloom, is the abrupt appearance of a sparse and quite unattractive stem on otherwise beautiful cabbage or kale. Its time as an attractive plant is now finished, but if you wish to collect the seeds to start new plants, you may let it grow further.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
举报
转发
atastybellpepper
2022年06月28日
atastybellpepper
The cheeryViola genus has more than 500 distinct species, including annuals, perennials, and even some subshrubs. It has been noted that each bloom has a unique face. They are all referred to as violas together, although their unique garden varieties are more often known as pansies (Viola x wittrockiana), Johnny-jump-ups (Viola tricolor), or violets (Viola sorolia and others). Violas are a diverse group that includes both pure species types and many hybrids and cultivars in every color of the spectrum. Most of the fast-growing kinds used as garden plants are annuals or short-lived perennials with few flowers. Many will reproduce themselves and provide you years of joy. Violas are edible flowers that make interesting salad toppings and garnishes. Additionally, they may be candied to create a frosted look or used as decorations for cakes and other sweets. Mostly cool-season bloomers, violas: They are ideal for bridging the seasons in warmer regions where they may stay in bloom all winter long, as well as for beginning and closing the season in colder climes. Depending on your climate, you should decide when to grow violas. They are often planted in the spring in cold areas, although they may also be planted in the autumn in regions without harsh winters. Care Viola In nurseries in colder regions and at the end of the summer in warm climates, violas are often the first seedlings for sale. Find plants that are robust and have a lot of buds. The distance between mounding violas should be between 6 and 8 inches. Planting spaces between kinds that trail or spread should be 10 to 12 inches. Approximately 12 to 14 weeks after sowing the seeds, violas start to bloom. Variety names "Penny" and "Sorbet" will bloom nine to ten weeks after seeding; V. tricolor (Johnny-jump-up) variations bloom around two weeks sooner than V. cornuta (horned violet). These plants will bloom continuously, but if you deadhead the wasted blooms, the blossoms will be more numerous. During the warmest parts of the summer, violas will likely fall dormant or start to die back. Outside, the mounded plants provide a charming border for a garden or to mark a route. Both in wooded environments and in the cracks of rocky cliffs, violas thrive. Combine them with other plants that thrive in cooler climates, such as Dianthus, snapdragons, and calendula. Or, to fill the gap when the spring-flowering bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, fade, nestle violas between them. Violas are ideal for containers because to their size, compact habit, and lengthy blooming cycle. Trailing variety look beautiful in window boxes, hanging baskets, and over the edge of other containers. Full sun is pleasant to Light Violas, but not the heat it produces. When planting in the summer, make sure they have access to some shade during the warmest portion of the day. This isn't an issue in the mild spring weather. The ideal medium for growing soil pansies and other violas is humusy, wet soil like a peat-based potting mix or garden soil that has been significantly treated with organic material. Violas like a somewhat acidic soil; adding peat moss to garden soil will help make it little more acidic. Water Water often, but let the soil dry up in between applications. While they can withstand some drought, frequent watering will help them blossom at their best. Thermodynamics and Humidity Violas grow in moderate temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit and like the chilly springtime air. Water and mulch will lessen the impact of hot heat. Violas may bloom all summer long with the right care, and the majority will bloom again in the autumn. Alternatively, especially in hot, southern climes, they may be dug out in the summer, replaced with another flower, and then replanted in the autumn when the temperature becomes cooler. Fertilizer Fill the soil with a slow-release fertilizer. To encourage an autumn bloom, fertilize in the spring and once more in the late summer. Various Violations Viola x wittrockiana, often known as the common garden pansy, is a hybrid with bigger, shorter-lived blooms that is typically planted as an annual in cooler climes. Flowers on the 8-inch-tall plants range in size from 2 to 3 inches, and they may be plain or patterned. There are several varieties of this viola, making it the most popular kind. In pots and baskets, it thrives. Viola tricolor, sometimes known as Johnny-jump-up, is a tiny plant that is related to pansies genetically. As the spilled seeds grow into volunteer seedlings, some hybrid pansies will go back to becoming Johnny-jump-ups. It is often used as a filler or as a border plant in gardens. Viola sororia, often known as the wild blue violet, is a plant that is typically considered to be an invasive weed in turf lawns and cultivated gardens unless it is specifically promoted in native woodland gardens. It is a native of forested regions and frequently makes its way there. Viola cornuta, sometimes referred to as the tufted or horned violet, has a smaller blossom than the pansy. These are perennials that spread widely, bearing 1 1/2-inch, two-toned blooms atop a rosette of leaves that reaches a height of 6 to 10 inches. Pruning By pinching off fading blossoms at the base of the flower stem, you may encourage blossoming and lengthen the flowering season. Cut lanky or overgrown plants down to a height of 3 to 4 inches to help them recover. Viola Seed Growing Instructions It's simple to grow violas from seeds. Although they are more than eager to self-seed all over your garden, chilly conditions may cause the volunteers to blossom much later in the season. The technique is quite simple if you want to start your own inside. 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting, start the seed. Although mature violas may endure brief periods of chilly weather, fresh transplants may suffer harm. Gardeners in warm climates who transplant in the autumn should start their seeds in the middle of the summer. Sterilized potting mix should be poured into tiny pots or flats to approximately 1/4 inch below the top edge. In each cell or container, scatter two to three seeds, then gently cover with the additional moistened potting mix. Remember to thoroughly cover the viola seeds since they require darkness to grow. Keep wet and place in a warm area (65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). A nice place is on top of the refrigerator. It should take 10 to 14 days for seeds to start germinating. Move the seeds to a window with sunlight or a grow light after they have sprouted. You must thin the pot or cell to the strongest-looking seeds when the first true leaves develop by pinching or clipping the others at the soil line. A temperature of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit is appropriate at this time. Additionally, you may start giving your seedlings any dependable, well-balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. When the weather and temperature are suitable for transplanting outside, start "hardening off" the seedlings by exposing them to the outdoors for longer and longer periods of time over the course of 10 to 14 days. Increase them exposure to the sun gradually, starting with one to two hours. During this stage of "hardening off," make sure the soil doesn't dry up. You may permanently put the seedlings into the garden or into their outdoor pots after they have become used to spending whole days outside. Growing from seeds placed directly in the garden is another option, although this method performs best in areas with a lengthy growing season. Planting areas should be carefully prepared by adding organic matter, then the soil should be loosened and seeds should be scattered. Place a thin layer of dirt on top, then thoroughly water the area. Make sure the seedbed is wet. As the seedlings grow, space them out to a distance of 6 to 8 inches, moving the extra seedlings to other places. Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses Keep your plants away from chilly, moist environments to prevent the growth of gray mold. Make sure your violas get enough sunlight and have proper airflow. If you see aphids, spray a vigorous stream of water on the plants to remove them, or, for more serious issues, treat them with insecticidal soap. Methods for Making Violets Bloom With the exception of the warmest weeks, violas bloom readily and during the most of the spring and summer. To keep yours flowering, prune your plants in late summer to make way for fall blossoms, deadhead flowers as they fade, and feed sparingly once a month throughout the growth season. Common Violation Issues Even though violas are often among the simplest plants to cultivate in your yard, you may sometimes encounter minor issues that you may easily resolve. Blotches of brown on the leaves Numerous fungi-related diseases, including leaf spot and anthracnose, may kill violas. The damaged leaves may be cut off with a clean garden shear, and the viola can be treated with a fungicide to fix everything. drooping flowers or leaves Numerous factors, including an abundance or shortage of water, as well as congestion, may cause this. Once you identify the cause, this issue is simple to fix. If there is a watering issue, insert your finger into the soil to see if it is too dry or too damp and make the necessary adjustments. Replant your violas with greater space between the plants if it seems that they require it for breathing space.
...显示更多
0
0
0
文章
评论
😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠
* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
滚动加载更多...
144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167
article
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
SOS
办公室里的小可爱
樱花开
多肉
生活多美好
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容